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The Estancia los Potreros in Argentina has long been a partner of Equitours and we have sent many happy guests over the decades. I was lucky enough to visit for a few nights and share my impressions.

Atmosphere

The Estancia strikes a balance between authentic old world charm and modern convenience. The rooms are welcoming and comfortable, with modern showers and inviting beds which are made each morning and turned down (complete with pillowcase candies!) each evening. The common areas display the family’s long history in the area, as the Anglo-Argentine family has been welcoming guests since the 1940s; a history in the area which has always been intertwined with horses.

Every effort is made for you to feel at home, comfortable and welcomed.

Staff

The staff is numerous and attentive, both behind the scenes and at your call. There are several European native English-speaking guides that accompany you on your activities – riding, walking, drives – and host you at mealtimes. These positions are generally volunteer for duration of about 3 months and the young women who filled them during my visit were consistently welcoming, helpful, kind and interesting, as well as lovely riders and knowledgeable horsewomen. Due to the varying and often limited time they’ve spent on the estancia and in Argentina, they are not the fonts of information that the owner, Kevin, and manager, Georgia are, and so it is fascinating to also spend time with them.

The local Argentine staff is Spanish speaking and therefore do not interact directly with guests. A gaucho leads each ride, and although rarely directly interacts with riders, carefully assists with horse and tack needs and keeps a close eye on riders during canters. They will start with a questioning, “Galope?” to gauge interest in moving into the canter, and then constantly watch the line of riders behind them to adjust the pace accordingly. It was a thrill to follow them into seemingly faster and faster paces on the capable and talented horses!

The kitchen and housekeeping staff are efficient and skilled. When at breakfast your room is magically prepared for your day, with shutters opened and bed made, filtered water replenished and laundry collected. The meals are filling and well rounded, three a day plus a tea and drink hour – with dinners and lunches providing a sampling of local style asados, vegetables, fresh breads and desserts.

A gaucho leads each ride, and although rarely directly interacts with riders, carefully assists with horse and tack needs and keeps a close eye on riders during canters. They will start with a questioning, “Galope?” to gauge interest in moving into the canter, and then constantly watch the line of riders behind them to adjust the pace accordingly. It was a thrill to follow them into seemingly faster and faster paces on the capable and talented horses! We also had the opportunity to “help” move cattle (the gauchos did all the work!) and watch them separate the herd. It was impressive to watch their riding and roping skills on full display. 

Horses

The Criollo horses are typically ridden in the mornings and the Peruvian Pasos in the afternoon. A quick way to tell the breed at a glance is that the Criollos have the traditional roached mane and forelock while the Pasos’ are free flowing. All horses are meticulously maintained and in good condition; a pleasure to ride. They are responsive and light, willing and brave and all get along well together. There were several guest who had never ridden before and were well taken care of by the guides and horses with no issue, and another group who enjoyed the opportunity for flat out gallops.

It was my first time riding a Paso and I was not disappointed. It was thrilling to experience the smooth floating gaits, and I felt as if I was magically and effortlessly being transported over the green rolling hills of the estancia. The saddles are of a comfortable trail style covered with sheepskins, and your horses are fully prepared for you.

It was an absolute pleasure to be able to spend a few days at the estancia. It was a delight to have every need anticipated and filled – awaiting your arrival with lemonade in hand, a water bottle and filtered water replenished in your room are a good examples – and to spend each day riding fantastic horses through the lovely countryside. A true paradise for the horse lover!

By Megan Barrett

Day 2

Day 3

Day 4

Day 5

Day 6

Day 7

My parting thoughts:

• What I captured does not do justice to what I saw with my own two eyes in real life.
• There is something special beyond words that a group of international people from all different countries and languages can come together and create a true bond over the shared love of horses and adventure. I came here only knowing my godmother. I’m leaving with 7 friends.
• I also can’t imagine exploring this country any other way. This kind of tourism actually supports the small countryside villages and families in a way they appreciate and you can tell.
• We were so well fed (TOO well fed!) by local chefs preparing regional Spanish dishes or a mixture of featured Spanish snacks at aperitivo stops, put up in authentic accommodations true to the culture of the villages, learned about the history of this country while riding through ancient Roman built roads and bridges and trade routes that no car would ever be able to traverse, and took in the native wildlife living peacefully in their own habitat.
• This trip was so well coordinated by the outfitter. No small detail left out and every person made to feel special. The love of the horses, and the land, and the culture shone through every single moment.

Salud, Espana. Muchas, muchas gracias. What new adventures can my own horses and I get up to now?!

Join our Equitours team member Biggi Hayes on a horseback riding vacation through the historical and beautiful Albanian landscape.

Albania had not been a destination on my radar for horseback riding, but Equitours received a lovely invitation to come and see for ourselves what this small country has to offer and I found myself planning a trip to learn more about this fascinating country, the outfitter and the trails they share with their guests.

I arrived in Tirana, the capital of Albania, late on a Saturday night after flying via Munich with Lufthansa, and made my way by foot to the Airport Garden Hotel which was a short distance from the arrivals hall. I had a pleasant night at the hotel and awaited my transfer to Gjirokaster to arrive in the early afternoon. I can honestly say I wasn’t quite sure what to expect in terms of fauna and flora. Knowing that Albania is north of Greece and I was visiting the country in mid May, I was expecting everything to be beige brown and more desert-like. To my surprise, however, as we drove south to Gjirokaster I was mesmerized by the green landscape which was in full bloom in high spring time. I couldn’t get enough of the emerald landscape surrounded by towering mountains.

Gjirokaster is an enchanting city with steep alleys, where each building has its history written in stone. Located in southern Albania, Gjirokastra lies on the slopes of the Drino River valley, in a dominant position and a landscape rich in history. This is the “city of a thousand staircases,” which includes hundreds of houses: Ottoman-type towers with stone roofs, wooden balconies and stone walls. With a magnificent castle on a steep hill, Gjirokastra is a magical city with a long history, and since 2005, it is part of UNESCO’s world heritage. Upon arrival in the city I was taken to the Hotel Kastro where everyone stays at the beginning and end of the ride. It is a quaint family owned hotel in the heart of town, minutes away from the old part. After dinner at a local restaurant I was ready to call it a night, yet excited about what lay ahead.

The horses are very surefooted and fun to ride

For the next couple of days I explored the Drino Valley on 2 two hour long rides from the stable which gave me an introduction to the horses, which came in handy a few days later as I joined a group of riders who were out on one of the weeklong mountain trails organized by the outfitter. The outfitter has been welcoming riding guests for over a decade. As founders, the owners and guides have succeeded in creating a great environment for their 42 horses and a harmonious and eco-friendly environment for their guests as well. The stable is situated amidst scenic hills, green valleys, surrounded by high mountains and rural life a few kilometers away from the city.

My first horse was the fun gelding Aoos who I got to ride on the two hour trails from the stables to get my footing, as I had not been in the saddle regularly for a couple of years. Aoos turned out to be fun and surefooted, and we enjoyed the first longer canters and gallops together. I was wondering if I would be able to ride him for the two days I was supposed to join the ride out, as it didn’t take me long to connect with Aoos, he had taken such good care of me and I felt my riding spirit returning.

The horses used are a local breed mix of Tarpan and Arab. They are small but perfectly suited to the rocky terrain being sure footed and accustomed to the long mountainous routes, allowing the riders to feel confident, relaxed and free to enjoy the stunning views.

In the time not spent riding I joined a cooking class, which was a super fun experience that is also offered during the week’s riding, and learned how to churn buttermilk and to make some local delicacies, all in the lovely home of the teacher and her family. Another interesting experience was creating a special kind of rolled up ice cream in one of the local shops. Earlier in the day we had also made a quick trip over the mountain to one of the seaside towns where riders stay on a separate itinerary, and I even had a chance to dip my toes in the Ionian Sea and view the Island of Corfu, which is not that many kilometers across the water from Albania.

The next morning I joined two days of riding out on the standard itinerary and experienced the overnight in a Greek minority village close to the border. Since the other riders had been out together for the last several days I was curious what it would be like to now join a cohesive group who had bonded out on the trail. To my delight I was welcomed with open arms and soon made new friends with the other riders. It was an eclectic group with riders from Germany, Poland, France, Belgium and the Netherlands as well as 3 riders from the US. We soon got the ‘how do you dos’ out of the way and were chatting amiably about everything under the sun. Thank goodness we were all like minded in many different ways.

The horse I was riding for the next couple of days was a mare named Nova who I came to trust and love over the kilometers we covered together. A sassy mare who loved a good canter and gallop, she reminded me of my late Arabian mare, Sunshine, and after about 30 min I knew we would have a blast. After the first long gallop across the open mountain meadows which were abloom with wildflowers I was in love. We were riding with the rest of the group all spread out and the sheer delight that comes from riding with the wind was bubbling up, and having a trustworthy and surefooted steed beneath me gave me a sense of freedom I hadn’t felt in a time now that my own horses have passed on.

After several hours of riding we came to the lunch stop along a refreshing creek winding through the wildflower covered meadow which was intoxicating. We enjoyed cool beers as lunch was dished out which included anything from salad to lamb and wonderful desserts to fortify us for the afternoon ahead. After riding for another 3 hours we arrived in the village of Polican where we stayed with a wonderful Greek family and enjoyed a feast for dinner.

The next morning we headed up to a high mountain trail crossing back over into the Drino Valley. At lunch time we stopped in the town of Labova for another big spread of wonderful local foods, everything from fresh salad and soup to balaclava desert, no effort was spared and Raki (a fruit brandy that is the national drink), wine and beer were also available. But first we explored the Church of Labova of the cross, the oldest church in Albania, constructed by Justinian the Great in 554. What a magnificent place. And for it still to be standing is an impressive architectural feat. Our guide shared with us the history of the church and it was a humbling experience to walk on the sacred ground.

During the ride we encountered lots of sheep and goat herds, guarded by sheep dogs and their shepherds

As we headed down into the valley I didn’t want my time on the ride to end, but I was scheduled to depart from Tirana the following day. Being part of this ride and this group had been very special; even though we only rode together for 2 days I hope to ride with them again. And as for Albania, I know I will return as time allows, as it now has a special place in my heart.

Enjoy a fun summer week in and around Westport, Ireland.

Journal by Biggi Hayes ~ Equitours riding consultant

The end of last May I was excited to be joining the Clew Bay Trail outside of the quaint town of Westport in Co Mayo, Ireland. A previous trip to check out a new outfitter in Northern Ireland in early March had left me quite chilly from a cold front moving through, so for this trip I packed more cold weather gear to be prepared.  Instead we ended up with an early summer heat wave and I had to go shopping for a few cooler shirt options and summer dresses as well – who would have thought! Temperatures in the mid 70’s are quite warm in Ireland for humans and horses alike and we had to take it slower on the trail but by the end of the day, walking into town for dinner along the beautiful greenways we revelled in it. It felt like summer magic was in the air. And magical the week turned out to be for myself and my two fellow riders.

Refreshing lunch stop.

The first two days we explored inland trails, meandered down canopied lanes, skirted the base of Croagh Patrick – an important pilgrimage site in County Mayo, rode through flocks of sheep, saw more sheep, stone walls and remains of several stone cottages and enjoyed picnic lunch al fresco while the horses grazed. We could see the holy mountain’s ever towering presence and by the third day of it beckoning me I worked up the nerve to climb it after riding, with one of the other riders joining me. What an unforgettable experience and the views of Clew Bay are breathtaking.

On this trip you ride for about 3-4 hours, which leaves plenty of time for evening adventures like this, as it stays light until almost 10 PM that time of year and it is an easy 10-15 min walk into town for dinners. At the end of the day the comfortable Lurgan Guesthouse provides a peaceful and tranquil environment and the owners Ena and Gerard share their Irish charm and wonderful hospitality with their guests and the breakfasts fortified us for the day ahead: both continental and cooked options were readily available every morning.

The following days we rode through peat bogs on country lanes, enjoyed lunch stops by babbling brooks, saw donkeys and more stonewalls with green fields pleasing the senses.  The horses on the ride are surefooted, fun and a pleasure to ride. I quickly fell in love with the mare Maggie who I had ridden several years ago on my previous quick visit. Every morning the horses are trailered to the starting points of the ride and the riders are transferred by vehicle as well, with both the driver and guide regaling us with local stories and folklore throughout the week.

“It was simply a magical and carefree week of blue sky, sunshine and summer, making new friends and riding through green fields, crossing streams and cantering along the shores of the West Coast of Ireland. “Slán go fóill” as they say in Irish, goodbye for now. As always I can’t wait to return.”

After cantering on the beach on Thursday afternoon, we went into town in search of traditional Irish music and the music and atmosphere did not disappoint. On the last day we enjoyed more splashing through the waves and taking in a few more canters on the Wild Atlantic Way.

For an unforgettable riding experience with beautiful views and warm hospitality, consider Ireland for your next adventure.

Living in Wyoming, experiencing additional Arctic activities hasn’t been something I felt I necessarily needed to pursue. However, having never been to Sweden, when the opportunity to go on the January winter ride there arose, I became excited to fully embrace the true frozen North. And the experience did not disappoint! Never had I imagined I would be driving a reindeer or dog sled independently, nor could I envision the intricate artwork on display at the Ice Hotel; these activities are so unique and well organized by our riding hosts that they were bucket list additions I didn’t know I needed!

Riding Icelandic Horses itself is a treat. I had a previous few days experience on these unique adorable horses from a few years back, but the ride in Sweden offered additional insight into their gaits. Kerstin, the owner of the farm, is extremely knowledgeable and an effective teacher, and over the course of a few lessons I went from being a passenger on horseback to being able to ask for the gait I wanted, both in the arena and on the trail. She and Jenny guide the rides and know each horse extremely well and explained points on the snowy terrain where we could ask for tolt or trot. The horses seemed comfortable in the cold weather, their abundant hair serving them well even when we all came in covered in frost. You are involved in all aspects of horse care, catching your horse and feeding them hay, picking out snow-packed hooves, brushing, saddling and bridling, which was informative as well as warming!

Coming back frosted

Because cold it was! The coldest temperature we saw was -25°F, and we were assured that we were faring better than the guests who were there week before, who experienced lows of -45°F. Before traveling I had thought, “maybe it won’t feel that bad – you know, if the sun is shining and the wind isn’t blowing, maybe you don’t notice the cold”… that was wrong. The moment I stepped off the plane in Kiruna I realized, “Oh, no, this definitely FEELS cold…”  But you’re well taken care of, and Kerstin or Jenny will tell you frankly if you just don’t have enough layers on! So you can go back into the mudroom area, where there’s a wall of winter coveralls to choose from, shelves of wool sweaters, drawers of mittens and hats, hand and toe warmers to purchase, and you learn quickly not to underestimate the chill, or be too fashion-conscious!

When asked if she liked the winter or summer rides better, Jenny said that she appreciated the peace of winter; riding through the forest, you could sense that everything was resting. The silence was complete, and the delicate winter light lent a fantasy quality to the landscape. We had about 3 hours between sunrise and sunset, but 6 hours total of light, mostly in pinkish hues. We saw the Northern Lights above the farm our first and last nights there, and our ride in darkness in hopes of finding them resulted only in moonlight, which was not disappointing as it still had a magical feel.

There’s a healthy mix of additional activities: snowmobiling, dog sledding and – probably my favorite – reindeer sledding. The guides were personable and knowledgeable, from the same Sami community as Kerstin, whose indigenous culture centers on reindeer herding. Coming from an equestrian background, the handling of the reindeer seemed less nuanced – which was both slightly terrifying (we’re just going to hold on to this rope and let the reindeer run and basically hope for the best?!) and invigorating (just hold on to that rope and have fun!!). Our guides fed us lunch and regaled us with stories and answers to our many questions, with the warmth, food and shared experience always being a balm to the outside cold.

I was amazed at the engineering and artistic feat that is the Ice Hotel. Guests there have access to their rooms at 7pm, and before that they are open to the public to visit. The rooms are all literally just ice and snow, carved and sculpted into designs of varying complexity, so those who stay in the rooms mostly enjoy them from within their warm sleeping bags. Each year there are different artists from around the world, and it was fascinating to see each unique artistic vision. You can choose to spend the night here if you want to the full experience!

I discussed with fellow riders the difference between a “vacation,” and an “experience;” the former having a greater emphasis on luxury and relaxation, while we all agreed we were part of the latter, where the activities were designed not necessarily for comfort, but to expand and enrich your knowledge and abilities. We did not have much down time, and while the accommodations were comfortable they didn’t come with extra amenities; we were fed well with homemade fare even cooked over the fire in the wooden Sami style hut. The guests on the trip were mostly younger Europeans, who weren’t there for a pampered curated stay, but for an authentic opportunity to experience a truly unique location and activities. While I have nothing against the pampered vacation, I am grateful for the worthwhile adventure on offer in Sweden’s winter. I’m glad to also be able to offer a summer experience, which is sure to offer a similar feeling of adventurous exploration.