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Failte (Welcome) to Ireland

My adventure on the Emerald Isle began as soon as I arrived at the Dublin airport, where I immediately felt at home. With a bit of trepidation, I picked up my right-hand-drive rental vehicle and ventured, for the first time in my life, into the Dublin rush hour chaos. I navigated my way out of town with the oncoming traffic now to my right. Surprisingly, it didn’t take too long to adapt to the new normal on the streets. That included being eternally watchful for sheep in the middle of the road around every bend.

I headed north to Monaghan and then west to Sligo, spending a couple of days at the Castle Leslie Equestrian Center and on the Atlantic Coast Trail Ride respectively before turning my vehicle southward to begin my equestrian holidays on the Dingle Peninsula.

The drive that day was bathed in sunshine as I drove from the northwest coast of Ireland to the Dingle Peninsula Trail. Along the way I was mesmerized by the ever changing Irish landscape; from the northwestern shores of the Atlantic with their dramatic coastlines, the industrial area of County Galway, and the beautiful patchwork of neatly laid out pastures of County Kerry, divided by stone walls and hedges. These images are forever imprinted on my mind. To break up the 8-hour drive I chose to ferry across the mouth of the Shannon River from County Clare to County Kerry.

Equitours Dingle Peninsula trail

Both days I enjoyed my mounts; Irish Hunters who were very reliable, surefooted and up for a trot or canter at a moment’s notice.

The road to the Dingle Peninsula became increasingly narrow and winding the higher into the mountains I drove. The peninsula welcomed me with its indescribable beauty; mountains dipping into the sea, white sandy beaches and fields of green as far as the eye could see. The town of Dingle is bright and colorful with neat little boutiques, art galleries and restaurants. This is also a great destination for non-riding companions. From the moment I arrived, I wanted to spend more time here.

The outfitters welcomed me and showed me to my quaint and charming accommodations. The riding stable for my holidays was on a hillside overlooking the town of Dingle on the bay and I particularly enjoyed the beautiful views at sunset.

The next two days brought clear, blue skies with warm and sunny autumn weather for exhilarating riding. We enjoyed long, posting trots along back roads lined with fuchsia hedges, canters along the beaches and views of some of the most beautiful countryside I have ever seen.

Equitours Dingle Peninsula trail

Nothing beats an extended canter on the beach!

Our guide was very friendly and knowledgeable and the horses easy to handle. Both days I enjoyed my mounts; Irish Hunters who were very reliable, surefooted and up for a trot or canter at a moment’s notice. The highlight of my riding was topping Mount Eagle and viewing below us the magnificent sight of the Blasket Islands basking in the sunlight. The Blasket Island information center provides educational insight into life as it was half a century ago when people were still living there. It is a must-see for visitors to Dingle and is part of the ride itinerary. We left the horses in front of the center, tied to a rail where they waited patiently for our return. The Dingle area allows its visitors to step back into the time when Gaelic, which to this day is still widely spoken on the peninsula, was the tongue of all Ireland. The local road signs posted in both English and Gaelic are vivid proof of that heritage.

Ride Review written by Biggi Hayes

Experience another way of life

Genuine working ranches can offer some wonderful opportunities for horseback riding vacations. Horses are still an integral part of operations on cattle ranches so they take riding seriously and guests can often help significantly with the necessary work of moving or sorting cattle. Ranches that depend on horses to handle their cattle usually have responsive and athletic horses. These horses can do much more than just follow along in a nose to tail line and are a pleasure for guests with some equestrian ability to ride. If you are herding cattle, you need a horse with some get up and go which responds well in driving cattle even in rough terrain and is prepared to strike out on its own rather than just following a leader. Many horses get to love working cattle and become good at it so that it is a pleasure to work in partnership with them to accomplish the task at hand.

Ranch horseback riding vacation holidays 1

Working ranches have the character of a family farm.

Of course it is not usually necessary to work cattle every day at ranches, but often they need to be checked on frequently to be sure they are in the right places and to check for wolf, puma and bear kills in a timely manner where these predators are a problem. The point is that horses at working ranches do have a purpose other than just giving people a ride. A working ranch like the Bitterroot in Wyoming or Los Potreros or Huechahue in Argentina have the character of a family farm as well and produce their own meat, many of the vegetables served to guests and raise their own horses. These places are self-sufficient to a great extent and have an atmosphere totally different from a resort. It is a disappearing way of life which used to be common, but there are still places where you can move back in time and experience this appealing life style. You will become part of the family as you ride and take meals with them.

Ranch horseback riding vacation holidays 2

Driving cattle to the summer range from the Bitterroot Ranch in Wyoming.

The Bitterroot Ranch in Wyoming is located high in a remote valley. The Highland and Angus cows spend the summer grazing in the mountains of the national forest adjacent to the ranch. Wolf and grizzly bear attacks are an ever present threat and it is import to find kills quickly in order to get reimbursed for them by the state. Unless the carcass is found quite quickly there is usually no way to prove the cause of death as the evidence is soon devoured. The ranch also has a vegetable garden and raises horses and sheep. Aside from the aspect of a working ranch, the Bitterroot has an outstanding equestrian program with an extensive obstacle course for advanced riders, complimentary lessons, team-sorting competitions, wilderness pack trips and a wide variety of trail rides. Riding groups are carefully chosen according to skill level. Fishermen can enjoy a trout stream which flows through the property. The Bitterroot can offer guests a fine ranch riding vacation.

Ranch horseback riding vacation holidays 3

Estancia Los Potreros gauchos

Los Potreros is a large cattle ranch in central Argentina run by four generations of an Anglo-Argentine family. They raise Black Angus cattle and are located in a secluded part of the mountains near Cordoba.   Guests can help the colorful gauchos herd cattle or go on trail rides in the surrounding area. Visitors have a marvelous introduction to the picturesque culture of the Argentine gaucho which dates back to the 16th century. An interesting equestrian aspect of Los Potreros is that they have a polo field where those who wish can have an introduction to this famous sport. They are able to cater to different skill levels from beginners to experienced players.

Ranch horseback riding vacation holidays 4

Guests helping drive cattle in Argentina

Huechahue Estancia is located in the foothills of the Andes and has a very fine trout stream running through it with excellent fly fishing. It comes closest to complete self-sufficiency with an extensive garden as well as cows for milk and cheese. The ranch also raises pigs and keeps poultry for eating as well as fresh eggs. Huechahue has a prize Criollo stallion and they also raise and train their own horses. There are frequent opportunities to work cattle depending on the time of year and they run pack trips into the neighboring Andes.

At an authentic working cattle ranch you can ride with a purpose and experience another way of life. It is a vacation for true horse lovers where your equine companions have a vital role to play.

Bayard Fox / August, 2014

Please enjoy this video of the Bitterroot Ranch in Wyoming.

Please enjoy this video of our Discover Tuscany ride in Italy. Video courtesy of Tauna Lockhart at Badaboomproductions.

No horses, no cowboys

The history of horseback riding in Arizona traces back to about a century after the Spanish conquistadors first arrived on American soil in the 16th century. After 1680, when the Pueblo Rebellion took place in Santa Fe, many horses escaped into the wild and the Indians were able to capture hundreds of others. Horsepower and speed totally changed their lifestyle, making it far easier to hunt buffalo and to move from place to place. Tribes like the Apache and Comanche delayed European settlement in the Southwest for decades because they had become extremely skillful at mounted warfare and had amazing mobility. Their nomadic life style made them hard to track down and subdue. When the Mexicans were defeated in the War of 1846-1848 most of what is now Arizona was ceded to the United States, but it took time to settle this huge territory.

Soon after the Civil War the Indian conflicts were greatly reduced and the huge buffalo herds they depended on for their commissary was being quickly exterminated. At the same time the completion of transcontinental railways made it possible to market cattle in the East where a rapidly growing population had developed a huge appetite for beef. The cattle business was soon thriving in Arizona and of course it took many cowboys and even more horses to handle the herds over the wide areas where they grazed. At the start there were still big herds of wild horses which had gone quickly feral and multiplied. Many of them were captured, tamed and turned into excellent cow ponies without which ranching could not have developed so rapidly. In the early years there were difficult booms and busts in the business because some ranchers tried to overstock the range and when drought years came many of the cattle starved. After some hard lessons ranchers learned to graze in a sustainable way and the amount of grazing on public lands was closely regulated. The mild climate makes wintering stock in Arizona easier than in a place like Wyoming. Mountain lions take a toll of cattle in many parts of the state and their population has to be controlled.

To give you some idea of the importance of ranching in the history of the Arizona, until about 1950 there were more cattle than people and they still number nearly a million head today. Wild horses are not as numerous as they once were, but there are a number of protected herds. Many visitors have enjoyed watching them interact in their natural environment. There are also wild burros which were used extensively as pack animals, particularly by lonely prospectors wandering in the remote mountains searching for gold. Many of these burros escaped or were abandoned and have done well in the wild where they are protected in some areas.

Equitours’ horseback riding vacations in Arizona are run by outfitters who are a fourth generation ranching family and have been driving their cattle between summer and winter pasture over the same route for a century. Horseback riding in Arizona with them is like stepping back a hundred years into the past and living the exciting and satisfying life of a cowboy. It will bring alive all those Western movies you have seen, books you have read and songs you have listened to.

Of History, Horses and Dressage

The Ancient Greeks were the first to leave records about anything like the art of dressage. Almost 2,500 years ago Xenophon wrote a treatise about how to teach horses and riders to do movements very similar to those we practice today. Somewhat surprisingly the techniques he suggests were almost as gentle as those of modern trainers like Linda Tellington-Jones and not at all like the brutal methods often used by people in ancient times as well as in many parts of the world today.  No doubt he had an influence on the Renaissance aristocrats who refined the sport and added to the art.

The tradition continues off the battlefield

Imagine war heroes of old rearing their steeds in battle! All photos from the New England dressage program.

In this day of aircraft and tanks it is hard to realize that not so long ago the horse played an often determining role in the course of battles. Well trained horses and riders could turn the balance so dressage was much more than a sport in those days. Movements like the levade, leaping, kicking and rearing could be tremendously useful in a battle at close quarters. The capriole, where the horse kicked out with great power front and back must have been a particularly devastating maneuver to surrounding foot soldiers. The psychological effect of a horse on opposing foot soldiers was also important. The Aztecs were certainly terrified by Cortez’s cavalry and European soldiers were far from immune to the same kind of panic.

Equestrian history

The noble horse-human dressage relationship spans over two millennium.

Dressage training was not only useful for warfare, it also helped horse and rider in equestrian sports like hunting, racing and bullfighting. Like so many events in modern rodeo, the movements in competition developed from very practical needs. Iberian horses like Andalusians and Lusitanos were excellent for this purpose. It is interesting that classical dressage and classical Western Riding have a great deal in common given that they both come from the same Spanish roots. You will find that a week of challenging riding can also be a very enjoyable vacation, providing an interesting glimpse of another culture and an opportunity to meet new friends.

Of Criollos and Camaraderie

Horses and riders cantered swiftly through the swirling mists and windblown rain of Chilean Patagonia, concentrating on the winding path ahead. Warm food and a hot shower were still several miles away. A loud shout from the left caused me to look in that direction and the image I saw seared into my memory like a picture from the past that is always remembered. Several hundred meters away, behind the nearby riders, huge, sky-blue slabs of vertical ice towered over the large beech trees on the edge of Rio Grey. The foggy, dream-like scene, with moving riders, silhouetted trees and blue icebergs, was filled with an ethereal quality. The wind and rain made picture-taking impossible, but this was ‘the” picture – with a stunning backdrop that said, “Welcome to horseback riding in Patagonia!”

At the end of the earth, near the southern tip of South America, in Chile’s southernmost Region De Magallanes, lies Torres Del Paine National Park. The centerpiece of the park is the Paine massif, a giant dome of pink granite capped by resilient black shale. Here, primeval forces combined to thrust cloud-wreathed towers (torres) and rocky horns (cuernos) 10,000 feet out of the surrounding steppes in one mind-boggling vertical leap.

This is the Chilean part of Patagonia, a land so immense where everything – including horseback riding – seems otherworldly and surreal. Minutes after adjusting our stirrups, tying on rain gear and starting our ride, sounds of a thunderous avalanche reverberated from nearby Mt. Almirante Nieto. Over the next 9 days, the roaring noises from several other avalanches came to us from the snow gods high up on other mountaintops.Near Lago Nordenskjold and Lago Azul, brown and white guanacos, wild camelids that are related to the better-known Alpaca and Llama let us approach on horseback, then emitted their turkey-like gobble and trotted off.

Wind protected valleys

We were glad to be hidden down in the more-protected valleys and forests.

In this remote park, we learned firsthand why the outfitter rides the low trails and, for the most part, eschews the high ones. The notorious Patagonian winds can blow so hard (over 50 MPH) that a horse must lean into the wind, just like we do. We saw conditions that, when quartering into heavy wind on the open plains, the Chilean Criollo horse knows instinctively to turn its body into the wind, while trotting sideways. Even on mild days, the strong, upper winds blew snow plumes off the mountain peaks above us, creating long white trails in the sky that billowed like smoke from a fire. Seeing that, we were glad to be hidden down in the more-protected valleys and forests.

Descending from horses imported by the Spanish conquistadors and evolving as the horse of the Pampas, the small South American Criollo horse is muscular, hardy, adaptable and independent. It is bred to trot all day for the baqueanos (South American wranglers) that watch over the herds of sheep and cattle on the large estancias (ranches) surrounding the park. Their stamina is legendary and they worked tirelessly for us, even at the end of a hard season of riding. We rode 35–40 Kilometers on hard travel days, which meant that after negotiating 20 kilometers of steep, rocky, muddy mountain trails, they cantered and trotted the last 15-20 kilometers on open plains like Olympic athletes completing an easy training run! For us, this was thrilling, being able to canter and trot for miles across open country wonderfully absent of prairie dog holes, fences or other dangers that plague the North American landscape. After a few moments rest, the amazingly hardy Criollo was ready to go again.

Lakes and Mountains of Chilean Patagonia

The ride offered many levels of reflection.

On this camping version of the 10-day Glacier ride, we quickly became one with our trusted mountain horses, as they bore us to the stunningly beautiful, remote areas of the park seldom seen by trekkers and other road-bound tourists. The longer horse trails circumvented the inner trekking trails, so we felt completely alone and at peace as we rode. It was only in several refugios that we encountered other travelers this late in the season (the end of March). In Patagonia, like other truly remote areas at the ends of the earth, distances traveled in these huge valleys are often measured in days, not in hours. In every open plain, we cantered for what seemed like forever, many times making our own trail in the wide-open terrain, not content with following the trail of others. By the second day, we cantered so far and had so much fun that one of our group exclaimed later, ” We cantered our brains out.”

Glacial river crossing

Swimming over the glacial rivers

We trotted the winding trails, among the southern beech trees that exist in three varieties – from low alpine shrubs to tall, stately trees. We walked up and down steep, rocky slopes, forded streams, slogged around and through deep, muddy bogs and swam rivers. (Actually, the horses swam the glacial rivers. The gear and people were ferried across in a leaky rubber raft.)

Glaciers and lakes

We marveled at the jewel-colored lakes.

Silently, we rode by jade-green lakes, surrounded by gaunt, gray skeletons of burned trees, the contorted remnants of past fires (many man-made). In one of these particularly beautiful spots, on the trail called the “Up-and-Over”, Mother Nature’s magic moved several riders to tears, as the sublime beauty of jewel-like lakes, numerous barren tree trunks and the omnipresent backdrop of an overarching mountain massif overwhelmed their emotions.

A view in the distance

Enjoying the view on a sunny day.

In a region where one must be prepared for all types of weather conditions, we experienced just about everything. The first three days had some bad weather that really tested our limits. The rest of the trip had plenty of blue-sky “polarizer” days, with some cloudy, cooler days mixed in – without much wind. When the weather was good, it was really good and we enjoyed and reveled in it immensely.

When the weather was bad, it was really rank. On day 3, riding back from Lago Pingo on a hard, all-day ride that covered 20+ miles, large globs of a snow/rain mix started falling from a leaden sky, pushed every which way by the infamous winds. The riders ensconced in their heavy, head-to-toe rain suits heard – and felt – the watery globs hit their suits and felt glad for the extra protection. Other riders, covered in varying degrees of lighter rain gear, had to hunker down into themselves like wet, water rats and draw on their warm, inner reserves.

As the trail turned into a slick, muddy quagmire, good mountain riding techniques were of paramount importance. On one particularly steep and rocky section, with hairpin turns and small cliffs, one rider got too close to a packhorse that stopped right above a bad section of slick rock. By not leaving enough space between horses, the horse and rider got caught midway up the slick rock, with nowhere to go. Instead of yelling at the packhorse to get going and giving her horse its head, the rider pulled back hard on the reins. This caused the horse to lose its balance and horse and rider toppled over backwards. The rider slid on her back into the mud and bushes along the trail and the horse ended up perched on the rock, with its leg through the reins. Having lost the reins and some pride, the rider, though experienced in show rings and jumping arenas was unsure what to do. The horse knew enough to just stand there and wait for help. Quickly coming to the rescue, one of the baqueanos steadied it enough to get the leg free and then led it to safety. Luckily, neither horse nor rider was injured in the fall. The lessons of leaving plenty of space between horses in tight or rough spots, giving the horse its head when it needs it and “gassing” your horse up the steep, slick rocks at the appropriate times were learned on that raw day.

The snug, quaint refugios were a pleasant surprise on the trip, as each night we had a dry place for eating, socializing and drying wet clothes. The refugios ranged from small 2-room huts to larger, hostel-like accommodations that had small kitchens, eating areas, showers and sleeping lofts. They also added a measure of safety, as several people lacking full raingear and waterproof gloves and boots could have become hypothermic had the wet, windy weather that Patagonia is renowned for continued for the duration of the ride.

With sunny weather and daytime temperatures in the 60’s (F), more beautiful riding days passed and we walked, trotted and cantered around Lago Azul and Lago Paine to the far northern region of the park. We camped for two nights at Refugio Dickson, surrounded by high snow-covered mountains, with a front row view of a large glacier. Here, horses must swim a milky, glacial river and then are turned out to graze on a grassy, tree-protected peninsula with the trekker’s foot trail barricaded to prevent their escape. (Note: the outfitter told us that they once did swim back across and made their break for freedom, but were rounded up by exasperated baqueanos miles away.)

On the next-to-last day, we retraced our steps from Dickson back to Lago Azul, then rode out of the park to a neighboring estancia. The horses will winter there on the open range. We were sad to say goodbye, but the horses were only concerned about the large, grassy meadows that we could see as we rode in. After a wonderful hot shower, we sat contentedly around an open fire with a large crucified lamb roasting over the coals. As the southern night sky enveloped us, we shared good wine and conversation. Tantalizing smells wafted around the fire and the Southern Cross shone brightly far above. As we had throughout the trip, we ate well on that last night. The succulent lambs, potatoes, salad, bread and dessert, washed down with Chilean wine, was a great ending to a well-planned and organized trip. It was obvious that Alec has done this many times, as he and his staff were always very attentive to our needs.

Lunch with view

Our group enjoyed a special camaraderie.

Our well-traveled group consisted of 6 guests, the excellent outfitter/cook, a delightful cook’s helper and 3 fun-loving, experienced baqueanos. Each person added a unique ingredient to the communal pot, melding our group dynamics into a special camaraderie broth. Of the guests, we had all true adventurers, masquerading at home as a vet, an artist, a vet tech, an equine journalist, a medical technologist and a database administrator. We were able to involve the baqueanos in some of our conversations, as several guests spoke good-to-fair Spanish and Alec was always available for translations. We laughed, told colorful stories, sang songs accompanied by really good guitar and harmonica playing, told jokes, looked out for each other, helped and kidded our fellow travelers – and when it was all over – we all realized that this wonderful trip touched our very souls.

River crossing 1

The wonderful Criollo horses transported us into another world.

After returning, we found many things about this trip hard to explain to people at home. Our pictures help, but they only go so far in explaining the grandeur and mystery of Patagonia. We tried to explain the fantastic, lenticular-shaped clouds, blown into oblong shapes by winds born in that wildest place – Antarctica. We tried to explain why the southern night sky seemingly has more stars and the meaning of the Southern Cross. We tried to explain how a riding trip like this could profoundly change some of our lives, renew our spirits and give us a new sense of direction. We tried to explain the eerie tree skeletons left standing throughout Torre Del Paine National Park, monuments to past man-made abuses to Mother Nature. And we tried to explain what the wonderful Criollo horse did for us, transporting us into another world – a Patagonian vastness – and the sense that this United Nations World Heritage site is truly a spectacular place – in a world full of special places.

Don and Marcia Lorenz
March 2001

Of Gauchos and Good Times

Home of the gauchos

The ranch is nestled amidst rolling green hills.

Estancia Los Potreros is a 6000 acre ranch located about 1 hour outside of Cordoba, Argentina, the second largest city in the country. It is about an hour’s flight from Buenos Aires. At an elevation of 4,000 feet, the ranch has been in the same Anglo-Argentinean family for four generations and is managed and operated by the owners, Kevin and Lou, a husband-wife team. Los Potreros translates to “the gates”, and is so named because of the number of gorgeous old stone walls that encircle and divide the ranch into various pastures. The ranch and surrounding area is very green, lots of rolling hills and buttes, but you also encounter a lot of rock, hence the stone walls. They have 500 head of Aberdeen- Angus cattle, 120 horses and also raise their own sheep and pigs.

Kevin and Lou can take a maximum of 12 -14 guests at a time. There are two rides per day except for Sundays, when there is only one. Guests ride once on the day of their arrival, in the late afternoon. The morning rides begin around 10 am with lunch served around 2 or 3, and the afternoon ride leaves around 5 pm.

Guests are welcome to stay for any length of time, leaving and arriving on the dates that suit them best. There are no formal, set weeks; people constantly come and go. The ranch is open all year, except for the month of May. In the winter (June through August), it is dry, pleasant during the day and cold at night. In the summer, it is wet (you might encounter a rain storm during your stay, but it won’t rain for days on end) and very green with warm-to-hot days and temperate evenings.

The ranch has a swimming pool and lovely grounds to stroll, should a guest want to take a morning or afternoon off from riding. If you’d like to go into Cordoba for the day, an all-day taxi can be arranged for around $125 – $150 US Dollars. The taxi will seat 4 people, and the cab driver will take you to places of interest in Cordoba and wait while you sight-see or shop. Lou and Kevin happily arrange this for their guests.

Getting There

Los Potreros is a 40 minute drive from the Cordoba airport. Transfers to and from the airport are provided for guests at no extra charge. A local taxi will pick up guests at the airport as they arrive (there is no need to wait for other guests’ flights) and drive them to the ranch. A rental car is not necessary, nor is public transportation an option.

First Impression

Estancia Los Potreros House 2.1

The ranch charmed us from the start.

Los Potreros made an incredible first impression as we drove up the very long gravel drive. We saw gorgeous stone walls, lush fields, cattle happily grazing and beautiful horses. When we arrived at the main house, where guests gather for meals, Lou and Kevin awaited us, dressed in traditional Argentinean riding garb. They were standing outside on the porch with their dogs, and they offered a tray with a “welcome lemonade”. This wonderful touch made everyone feel very welcome indeed and was a sign of how attentive to detail the hosts would be throughout our week there. The grounds were immaculate, as were the rooms. You immediately felt the relaxing, happy atmosphere.

Staff

Lou and Kevin were our hosts, and they were most entertaining and conscientious. They have hired locals as cooks, maids and gauchos. They also employ 4 foreign, English-speaking guides. Each ride has both a native gaucho leading the ride, setting the pace, and an English speaking guide riding in the rear who can enhance the ride with stories and information about flora and fauna. Lou and Kevin typically ride with their guests once a day, and one of the foreign guides accompanies the group during the other ride.

Argentine specialties

The local cooks introduced us to their traditional specialties.

At dinner, the guests dine with either Kevin or Lou (they switch off nights with guests) and a foreign guide, who stays up with the guests until they retire for the evening, happily refilling drinks and engaging in entertaining conversation. A foreign guide also serves breakfast in the morning. The staff, both local and foreign, were dedicated, hard-working and very eager to please. They were all excellent. Lou and Kevin clearly knew more about the history of the ranch than the foreign guides, so rides with them contained more interesting information.

Horses

These were, hands-down, the finest horses I have ridden on any Equitours vacation. There are about 120 for 12 guests. They breed about 10 foals a year and buy horses as well. The gauchos train the home-bred horses on site and are paid extra for each horse they successfully train, so there is a lot of incentive to train them well. There is a mixture of Criollo horses and Peruvian Pasos, which are gaited horses. Both the Criollos and Pasos at Los Potreros are much larger and better-built than the other Criollos and Pasos I have encountered. They have sleek coats, are beautifully groomed and fed very well. The guests ride either all Criollos or all Pasos during each specific ride, which is important to note. If someone goes there wanting to ride only gaited horses, they will not be able to ride a gaited horse on every ride. They will ride gaited horses about half of the time.

The horses are extremely well-trained and finely tuned. You ride a different horse every ride, maybe repeating one or two during the week. Lou selects horses for her riders and does an excellent job matching personalities. She is also very open to feedback and willing to adjust mounts if someone is not pleased with a specific horse. The gauchos do all of the farrier work, so shoes are clinched and checked every morning. As a result, there were no problems with loose shoes on the trails and all horses moved quite soundly. There were no signs of saddle sores, and very few signs of bite marks. The horses live together in herds out in the pasture (divided by breed, Criollos in one pasture, Pasos in another), so they are very comfortable with one another when riding. Guests may ride in any order, and we were welcome to change order throughout the ride. We experienced no kicking, no biting, no vices at all…no attempts to graze, no slow-walking. As stated above, they were very finely tuned animals. They were also very friendly with people and loved being petted before and after rides. We used mounting blocks to get on the horses.

Tack

They have three types of saddles: 2 types of English (polo and military) and Gaucho saddles. Each horse has its own saddle, so you ride in a different saddle every time you go out, which is also important to note. If you really like a specific saddle, you will not ride in it every time because you will be riding in a saddle that fits the horse. If the saddle was really important to the rider, I’m sure Lou could find other mounts for the rider that used the same type of saddle. The saddles all fit the horses very well.

The polo saddles have a lower back and front and are most similar to a close-contact English saddle. The English military saddles have a very high back and front, so you are really held into position. The Gaucho saddle is much wider. It has a broad flat front and back and looks like a large rectangle draped over the horse. Although comfortable, they really encourage the lower leg to be quite far forward, since this is how the gauchos ride. If you fight having the lower leg forward, it becomes less comfortable. You definitely get a wider stretch through the hips in the gaucho saddle. Each saddle comes out with a gorgeous, huge sheep skin draped over top as a seat save. I found all of the saddles to be very comfortable, well-cared for and made of very high quality leather.

All of the horses neck rein, and the bridles are made of beautiful leather. The horses wear lovely, thick leather halters with the bridles over them, so that they can be easily tied up during picnic rides. The reins are thick and a pleasure to hold. The tack room is gorgeous…perfectly clean, filled with fine tack. It is situated right next to where guests mount and was certainly an impressive sight.

Water bottles and saddle bags are provided upon request. The gauchos carry bottles of water as well as lemonade and cups with them in their own saddle bags, so guests are welcome to stop for refreshments regularly.

Riding

At Los Potreros riding is done in a hybrid English-Western style. They neck rein, as we do in Western riding, and the horses are extremely responsive. You are welcome to post or sit the trot, as well as sit the canter or half-seat, whichever is most comfortable for you. You are encouraged to sit in the saddle at all gaits, since that is what the gauchos do and that is how the horses are trained, but it is up to each guest. All three types of saddles have English style stirrups, but the Gaucho saddle is a little more reminiscent of a Western saddle, with its larger size. Going up hills, they ask that you lean forward a little to help your horse, but they do not ask you to actually get up out of the saddle.

Polo Estancia Los Potreros 2.1

On one of the picnic rides we had the opportunity to play polo with the gauchos.

We rode 5 – 6 hours per day. Most days you go out twice, but on two days we had picnic rides. On one of the picnic rides the gauchos and foreign guides packed lunches, and we rode to a beautiful swimming hole where we stopped for a few hours to read, swim and jump off rocks into the water. The other picnic ride was the day we played polo. In the morning we played polo, then had lunch at the polo site, and finally stopped by Lou and Kevin’s house on the way home to play gaucho games (like pole bending). It was a great day.

Argentinian Bonanza

The gauchos were always ready for action.

One of the best aspects of Los Potreros was how varied the riding activities were. We went on trail rides, picnic rides, played polo and gaucho games and herded horses and cattle. We also had the opportunity to ride to El Chiviquin, the cattle headquarters of the ranch, and watch the gauchos lasso and dip the calves in fly protectant. Each day was a new adventure, and it kept guest energy and interest up throughout the week.

Cooling off

The rides covered varied terrain.

The pace of the ride is varied due to the rocky terrain. We had many opportunities for good gallops, but we also walked quite a bit. As in most Latin American countries, there is not much trotting done. We were either going on long canters or extended gallops, or we were walking. They are very amenable to adjusting the pace of the ride to the ability and desires of the group. Our group liked to go fast, and they made sure we were able to do so frequently. Different groups were sent on rides according to skill level, accommodating people who had never ridden before all the way up to highly advanced riders. In addition, our hosts were able to accommodate our particular group by sending out extra guides with us, so that we could all ride together at times, although we had a variety of ride levels in our groups. With the extra guides, the more experienced riders could go on fast canters while the extra guide could lead the less experienced riders on slower canters, and we could all catch up at the end of the canters. This worked out well, and it was nice for the group to ride together sometimes.

Accommodations

The accommodations were very neat and well-maintained. They are not fancy, but they are lovely. Decorated in the typical local style of the region, they are cleaned daily by very attentive maids. Free laundry service is also provided any day you would like, though all clothes are line-dried, and depending on weather, it can take a day or two to get your clothes back, which is important to note.

LOS POTREROS BEDROOM 1

The accommodations were decorated as is typical of the region. The maids brought fresh flowers from the garden to our room daily.

While they can take 12 – 14 guests, there are actually 8 rooms/cabins. There is a cute stand-alone single cottage which is very charming and has lots of natural light. There are two rooms that are physically attached to the main house, where meals are served, and each of those can accommodate two people. In addition there is a stand-alone building that would be great for a family, having three bedrooms, one of which has bunk beds for kids, and two bathrooms. Finally there is a third stand-alone building that is quite large and has two bedrooms, each with adjoining bath. In this suite is also a large sitting room and even a kitchen (though it was not used while we were there!). All rooms have private bathrooms.

Veranda at Potrero de Loza

Some meals were served on the picturesque veranda.

Many thoughtful touches have been taken with the rooms as well. The maids put in fresh-cut flowers from the ranch each day, which were a lovely sight and smell to come home to.

There is free internet available in the main house where we gathered for meals. It is wireless, but not terribly fast, which is important to note. Downloading large files would be a frustrating endeavor! People needing to conduct business while at Los Potreros should be warned that while they have internet access, it is not the fastest or strongest of signals. It is perfectly adequate for checking and writing emails. The hosts ask that no one use internet during meal time, cocktail hour or tea time. That way the holiday isn’t disrupted by continuous computer use. Appropriate times for using computers and internet are after breakfast (before the first ride) and after lunch (during siesta).

Food

Meals are included in the ride cost, as are alcohol and other beverages. There is a full bar in addition to beer and red and white wine. The hosts are very generous with the alcohol, always willing to pour and encouraging people to have as much as they want.

Tea or coffee is brought to each person’s room in the morning, which is such a luxury! They bring the tea or coffee at 8 or 8:30 and breakfast is at 9. Fresh fruit, freshly squeezed juice, cereal, as well as hot breakfast to order (think eggs and bacon however you like it) are served to start the day off right.
Lunch is typically at 3, depending on when the morning ride returns. Beer, wine, juice, soda and water are offered with lunch. Lunch is plated and served to you, so it is not a buffet and there is not a huge amount of choice. They accommodate vegetarians, vegans and any dietary restrictions.

Guests are invited to tea at 5 pm before the afternoon ride goes out. Snacks are served as well.

Kitchen with Light.jpg.1

Many a delicious meal originated in the spacious kitchen.

Cocktail hour begins at 8 or 8:30 with light hors d’oeuvres, and dinner is at 9. Again, dinner is plated and served to you, so you eat what you are given. The meals are very delicious, very balanced and made with fresh, home-raised ingredients whenever possible. There is a bell at the dining room table, which Kevin or Lou rings whenever service is needed. When the bell rings, waitresses come to clear the plates and offer the group seconds. Dessert is served with dinner.

If anyone is ever hungry between meals, they are welcome to go to the kitchen for a snack. While the tap water is safe to drink, bottled water is provided at all meals, in the rooms and on the rides, so there is never a lack of fresh, bottled water!

Other Activities

As noted, there is a nice pool, and swimming was also offered on the picnic ride when we went to the swimming hole. It is a lovely ranch to explore on foot as well, for those who are interested in hiking or running. Also, the hosts are very willing and able to accommodate non-riders who are interested in watching the polo and the gaucho games, but not actually taking part. At some point during the week, almost every client on our trip took a ride off to rest, read, relax or swim. Estancia Los Potreros is a place with a great energy, so just enjoying the surroundings is a lovely way to spend the afternoon.

Extra Costs

GAUCHOS 07.jpg.1Gratuities are not included, and it is suggested that each guest leave $15 – 20 per day if they received excellent service. Every client in our group certainly felt the gratuity was warranted, given the level of service. Any form of currency for gratuities is gladly accepted, be it pesos, dollars, euros, pounds, whatever!

Please note that to enter Argentina, Americans are required to pay a $140 visa tax per person when they land in the country. It can be paid with credit card or cash. This visa tax is good for 10 years, so if you return to the country within 10 years you will not have to pay it a second time.

Ride Review by Hadley Fox
March 2012

Sightseeing from a Different Perspective

For those of you who like to travel in depth and see the most beautiful and unspoiled parts of the countries you visit; adventure travel on horseback has huge advantages.  Equestrian vacations offer a chance to practice a sport which has been very popular with mankind for centuries and at the same time to reach out of the way places seldom visited by other tourists.  Trips on horseback are leisurely, contemplative experiences and you are not rushing from place to place at great speed on super highways, but moving at a slower place which allows time to study the country you traverse.  Walking or biking can also provide the opportunity for travel in depth, but you have to pay attention to where you are going constantly and can’t be looking around as much as you can while sitting on the back of a reliable horse.  Another advantage of travel on horseback is that it offers the companionship of an equine friend as well as that of your fellow travelers.    A common love of horses also forms a bond between you and the local people you encounter including your guides.

If you have a sense of history, equestrian travel is very much in keeping with the past since most people who could afford them used horses to get from place to place as fast and as comfortably as they could until very recently.  Strategically placed relay stations were used to provide fresh mounts and offer overnight accommodations and if you are traveling in France, you will find that many restaurants and inns often have the name “relais” or relay because that is why they originally existed.  The purest form of travel on horseback is to ride through wilderness areas with pack horses to carry the equipment. This is how the early European visitors to the American West moved and it is still possible to take pack trips through remote, unspoiled wilderness areas in the Rocky Mountains.  On those adventures you are with your horses night and day and are totally dependent on them so that a strong bond often forms.

There is nothing more thrilling than galloping with wildlife

Most interesting and exciting of all is a horse safari in African big game country where there are elephant, zebra, giraffe and lion to mention a few.  Your horse will share your interest in the wild game you view and will react with enthusiasm to a race with the zebra or wildebeest.  You also have time to study the less obvious creatures; the birds, the butterflies and the subtle variations of vegetation.

A horseback riding holiday in a new place can also broaden your knowledge of riding techniques and other types of horses. On Equitours trips you can learn to ride a tolting Icelandic or a gaited Peruvian Horse and practice piaffe and passage on an Andalusian stallion. You will also see different saddles, bridles, padding and ways of training.  Exposure to other ways of riding will help you take a fresh look at what you are doing at home and give you new perspectives.

We invite you to view our complete collection of trip destinations. Get ready for a great adventure!

By Bayard Fox

The Horse and Native American Culture – Spectacular Flowering and Ignominious Collapse

The acquisition of horses by the plains Indians in the early 18th century transformed the lives of most tribes between the Rockies and the Mississippi. Almost overnight they found a much more effective way of hunting the buffalo, the main staple of life in this huge area. They embraced the horseback riding culture enthusiastically. With a good horse under him, a hunter could go faster than a buffalo which gave him an enormous advantage.

Since the buffalo herds moved seasonally great distances from place to place those who depended on them for their living must move also. The horse made this far easier and quicker. I know of few situations in history where the economy and culture of a society have been so dramatically transformed with such lightning speed by a similar empowerment. The romance and excitement of this colorful culture has captured the imagination of the Western World and it has become a favorite subject for books, paintings and movies.

The acquisition of the horse transformed Plains Indian culture.

The Indian acquisition of the horse reminds me of the somewhat analogous technological revolution in our society caused by the invention and ubiquitous spread of motor vehicles. The glory days of Indian horsemen lasted a little over a century. Given our rapid exhaustion of oil and gas reserves and our pollution of the environment, one wonders if the glory days of the motor vehicle will last much longer than that of the mounted Indian.

It is a strange quirk of fate that equines originated in North America, but became extinct here though they continued to thrive in Asia after crossing the Bering Straits. It is interesting to speculate as to how different history would have been if the horse had stayed in North America and the enormous advantage to civilization had developed first on this side of the ocean. However that may be, it appears that few horses got into Indian hands before the revolt against the Spanish in New Mexico in 1680. In his wonderful book, American Colonies, Taylor says that this revolt was the greatest setback inflicted by natives on European expansion in North America. Thereafter horses and equine culture spread quickly northward across the whole Great Plains area far into Canada.

One must remember that before the early 1700s the Plains Indian depended on dogs or human beings for transporting their equipment. The vast herds of buffalo were extremely difficult for them to hunt because they could move much faster than a man on foot. On the vast plains there was little cover where hunters could hide to make a stalk. Certainly resourceful hunters managed to kill buffalo with techniques like approaching using wolf hides as cover or driving herds over a precipice, but this did not provide great abundance with any continuity. Almost overnight, as if by magic, they found a way to outrun a buffalo and carry much greater loads farther and faster than a dog or a human.

As in European societies, the horse was sometimes a mixed blessing since it could be used for military purposes. It made lightning raids on enemy villages at considerable distances possible and the theft of horses caused endless animosities. Hunting rights to particular areas ignited fierce warfare. Around tribal centers game tended to become less plentiful and sought refuge in the no man’s land between rivals which caused frequent clashes between hunting parties.

Tragically, the glory days of mounted warriors lasted little more than a century, a tiny fraction of the more than 10,000 year history of Indians here. With the decimation of the buffalo herds, military defeat and white settlement, the picturesque culture of these proud, nomadic hunter/warriors was shattered and is only a memory today. One can understand that these people have had trouble adapting to the humdrum existence of a sedentary life on a reservation.

By Bayard Fox

Bibliography:

Alan Taylor – American Colonies
John C. Ewers – The Horse in Blackfoot Indian Culture, with Comparative Material from Other Western Tribes

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