We were met at the tiny Kiruna airport by a pleasant staffer who introduced the members of the group and took us on the 20’ drive to the farm to start the Scandinavian Summer ride. There we moved into the guest houses just in time for a dinner of fish pulled from the nearby lake, prepared by Jennie, a genuinely talented cook who, with Hannah, was one of our two guides for the duration. The glassed-in dining room looks right into the barn, so we were watched by an the first of many adorable Icelandics. Our group consisted of 4 Swedes, 2 Germans, 2 French, and 2 Americans – all women (which made saunas, stream-bathing, and changing a lot less complicated). After dinner, we were asked what we wanted in terms of our horse for the week. I asked for a perfect horse, with lovely gaits, no stumbling, who likes all the other horses, who doesn’t pull and doesn’t need to be kicked constantly. So the next morning I was handed exactly that – Stormur – what an amazing guy! All the horses were excellent – everyone got what they asked for! They’re happy, healthy, interested horses, with excellent, comfortable tack.
This is a circular point to point ride that begins and ends at the farmhouse. Our first day was – I think – a seven-hour trek to the teepees – the longest of our 5 rides – not including the hour and a half lunch break (Jennie also cooked all the lunches, over a campfire). Hanna brought along her two terrific Australian sheepdogs, and cooking gear/food was carried by our trusty pack horse, who ran free, often wandering off to take in the views. The ride was long, but comfortable, walking, tolting, and trotting, with some dismounts to lead our horses through over bogs, over narrow plank bridges, or at a few especially steep spots. The arctic landscapes varied from birch forest to beautiful vernal pools, bogs, low-growing scrub, and, rarely, rock. There were zero issues with horses or riders. This is a great ride for intermediate or advanced riders – the distance is challenging but the horses and terrain are not. Although there were no official canters (and no gallops) you can always take one on your own. Our guides were helpful and always available to answer questions or check your girth, but Jennie and Hannah really are trying to give you as much freedom as possible, and, I think, build your self-confidence. You pick your own pace and position in the group, and most of the riding is in wide-open spaces past the tree line- sort of like high meadow riding, without the grass. I didn’t hear any corrections of anyone’s riding style – though maybe we had an especially trustworthy group? Every member of the group was an interesting, pleasant, competent person.
After our first ride we arrived at the teepees. I’m not a camping person, and I was a little startled to see – no pillows? The floor is covered in what- branches?? But my best sleeping nights were in the teepees – a mat and then a reindeer skin go on top of the brush, and it is springy, insulating and comfortable! We rode in late July, which meant daylight all night long. You could still enjoy the pleasant view from the latrine at 3am.
Throughout the ride you’re drinking and bathing in water from natural streams (surprisingly, not too cold). Once we arrived at the cabins, we were also able to enjoy a wonderful sauna next to a stream, where we could scoop out buckets of water for bathing inside the sauna (where we hid from the mosquitos). The mosquitoes were amazing- so many different species! We had one really bad night at the cabin because we had not properly secured our netting over the windows – be sure to have your guide double check – the mosquitos are very dense and will get through even a small gap. And bring a bottle of antihistamines – that really helps. This is a very busy ride – we were always either riding, caring for the horses, helping with meals/cleanup, bathing, eating, or sleeping. The closest thing to downtime was the 1-1.5 hr lunch break (for the horses). This was not a “party ride”. My fellow riders were *all* terrific people, and I really think this ride was focused on personal growth. But again, that will depend on you, and the people on your ride!
Our views along the ride, above the tree line, were amazing. Spectacularly peaceful, still lakes reflected the clouds and mountains, and each day we saw very cautious moose, watching us from a distance, as well as isolated birds that seemed to guide us, calling out each time we caught up to their perch.
The weather on our trip was ideal throughout. We put on our rain gear twice, seeing rain at a distance, but we never needed it (your experience may differ!). I suggest you not bring boots or raingear of your own, the farm has plenty to choose from, and if your own boots are not waterproof you don’t want them in the bogs.
The last ride arrives at the farmhouse just in time for a last dinner, which was spectacular (thanks again, Jennie!). The guests met again for breakfast, and then we went our separate ways. In our case, because the airport was closed for renovations, and we had bought tickets for the 14 hr sleeper train to Stockholm, which departed at 6pm. To fill the time before our train, the farm dropped us off at the famous Ice Hotel around 11am. We left our bags with the desk, had a great lunch, toured the carved-ice rooms, and walked to the excellent Sami Museum, before taking the taxi to the (again, very small) train station. Some of our fellow riders stayed a night in Kiruna, but they do not recommend it – the city is in the process of moving and is very empty. The night train, in Sweden, is an experience- not a fancy one, not always in good repair, not always reliable, but the beds are very comfy.
Written by Anne Britt, July 2024